Effect of wave skewness and asymmetry on the evolution of Fire Island, New York

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Abstract

Bedload transport of sediment by waves and currents is one of the key physical processes that affect the evolution of coasts, nearshore areas, and the engineering practices there. Wave skewness and asymmetry, both of which increase as waves shoal, result in a net bedload sediment flux over a wave cycle. The impacts of this mechanism on large-scale coastal and shoreline change are investigated in this study, using field observations and Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Wave Sediment Transport (COAWST), a hydrodynamic process-based numerical modeling system (Warner et al., 2010). The study site is Fire Island, New York, located at the Atlantic Coast of the USA, with a focus on the persistent shoreline shape, at the western half of this 50-km-long barrier island, that has been hypothesized to be linked to the sand deposits at the shoreface.

Publication type Conference Paper
Publication Subtype Conference Paper
Title Effect of wave skewness and asymmetry on the evolution of Fire Island, New York
DOI 10.9753/icce.v37.sediment.17
Volume 37
Year Published 2022
Language English
Publisher Coastal engineering proceedings
Contributing office(s) Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center
Description 1 p.
Conference Title 37th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,
Conference Location New South Wales, Australia
Conference Date July 2-8, 2022
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