Significant wave height, dominant wave period, and wave direction were prescribed as D-Wave TPAR format files every 30 grid cells along the model boundary using results from the NOAA Wavewatch III 4' multi-grid model for a representative moment in time corresponding to the offshore wave conditions of the scenario, the specific time of which may be found in the included wave_scenarios.txt file. A JONSWAP (JOint NOrth Sea WAve Project) spectral shape was assumed at these boundary points. Wind forcing was provided using the archived WavewatchIII 4' winds, extracted from the NOAA GFS wind model, for this time. The D-Wave directional space covers a full circle with a resolution was 5 degrees (72 bins). The frequency range was specified as 0.05-1 Hz with logarithmic spacing. Bottom friction calculations used the JONSWAP formulation with a uniform roughness coefficient of 0.067 m2/s3. 3rd-generation physics are activated which accounts for wind wave generation, triad wave interactions and whitecapping (via the Komen et al parameterization). Depth-induced wave breaking dissipation is included using the method of Battjes and Janssen with default values for alpha (1) and gamma (0.73). Current model outputs of east and north current velocity component were extracted and interpolated to the wave model grid (staggered points in relation to the current model grid).
NDBC observations from station 42012 for the representative scenario time periods were used to validate the wave model results.
For each alongshore transect, the surf zone is defined as the area between the shoreline and the location of maximum wave height (found in a search area extending from the shoreline to the most offshore point of modeled depth-induced wave breaking dissipation). The extent of the surf zone (as indices into the grid at each alongshore location of the cross-shore position of the shoreline and seaward edge of the surf zone) was saved for all of the scenarios into a MATLAB .mat structure.
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