<?xml version='1.0' encoding='utf-8'?>
<oai_dc:dc xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:oai_dc="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/ http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc.xsd">
  <dc:contributor>Robert A. Holman</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>W.A. Birkemeier</dc:contributor>
  <dc:creator>Asbury H Sallenger Jr.</dc:creator>
  <dc:date>1985</dc:date>
  <dc:description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;A nearshore-bar system was surveyed periodically through a storm and the following recovery period. The data showed a very rapid response of morphology to changing wave conditions and allowed various models on bar formation to be tested.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;Under low-energy conditions prior to the storm a small bar was surveyed 13 m offshore. Both the high reflectivity of the beach and the cross-shore distance to the bar are consistent with a model of sediment convergence at the node or antinode of a standing wave of incident period. Such a small-scale bar may be a common feature on beaches with steep foreshores and more gentle offshore slopes.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;With the increase in wave height during the storm, the bar became better developed and migrated offshore at rates up to 2.2 m h&lt;sup&gt;−1&lt;/sup&gt;. The bar maintained its form in that the ratio of trough depth to crest depth (&lt;span class="math"&gt;&lt;span id="MathJax-Element-1-Frame" class="MathJax_SVG" data-mathml="&lt;math xmlns=&amp;quot;http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML&amp;quot;&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;h&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mi&gt;&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;t&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;h&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mi&gt;&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;c&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;"&gt;&lt;span class="MJX_Assistive_MathML"&gt;h&lt;sub&gt;t&lt;/sub&gt;h&lt;sub&gt;c&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;) remained roughly constant. The bar was in no way related to processes which would cause the convergence of sediment in the breaker zone; through most of the storm the bar-crest distance offshore was typically only 10% of the surf-zone width. Analysis of the bar distance offshore in terms of a standing wave motion showed that the causative wave period must have been much longer than that of incident waves, probably on the order of a minute. Surf-zone wave data showed significant energy in the infragravity band at these periods although no definite link has been made.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;After the height of the storm, the bar had a crescentic morphology. The development of this morphology occurred very rapidly with parts of the bar migrating onshore at rates up to 1.2 m h&lt;sup&gt;−1&lt;/sup&gt;. In contrast to the storm, during the recovery period&amp;nbsp;&lt;span class="math"&gt;&lt;span id="MathJax-Element-2-Frame" class="MathJax_SVG" data-mathml="&lt;math xmlns=&amp;quot;http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML&amp;quot;&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;h&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mi&gt;&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;t&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;h&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;msub&gt;&lt;mi&gt;&lt;/mi&gt;&lt;mn&gt;&lt;mtext&gt;c&lt;/mtext&gt;&lt;/mn&gt;&lt;/msub&gt;&lt;/math&gt;"&gt;&lt;span class="MJX_Assistive_MathML"&gt;h&lt;sub&gt;t&lt;/sub&gt;h&lt;sub&gt;c&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&amp;nbsp;varied by nearly a factor of three. Analysis of the offshore and longshore length scales showed the bar to be similar to one which would be generated by a standing mode 1 edge wave of period on the order of one minute.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</dc:description>
  <dc:format>application/pdf</dc:format>
  <dc:identifier>10.1016/0025-3227(85)90107-0</dc:identifier>
  <dc:language>en</dc:language>
  <dc:publisher>Elsevier</dc:publisher>
  <dc:title>Storm-induced response of a nearshore-bar system</dc:title>
  <dc:type>article</dc:type>
</oai_dc:dc>