<?xml version='1.0' encoding='utf-8'?>
<oai_dc:dc xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:oai_dc="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/ http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc.xsd">
  <dc:contributor>Dano Roelvink</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Ap R. van Dongeren</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Mark L. Buckley</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Ryan J. Lowe</dc:contributor>
  <dc:creator>Christopher H. Lashley</dc:creator>
  <dc:date>2018</dc:date>
  <dc:description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short-wave resolving, Nonhydrostatic (XB-NH) and short-wave averaged, Surfbeat (XB-SB) modes of the XBeach numerical model to validate run-up using data from two 1D (alongshore uniform) fringing-reef profiles without roughness elements, with two objectives: i) to provide insight into the physical processes governing run-up in such environments; and ii) to evaluate the performance of both modes in accurately predicting run-up over a wide range of conditions. XBeach was calibrated by optimizing the maximum wave steepness parameter&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;(maxbrsteep)&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span&gt;&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;in XB-NH and the dissipation coefficient (&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;alpha&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span&gt;) in XB-SB) using the first dataset; and then applied to the second dataset for validation. XB-NH and XB-SB predictions of extreme wave run-up (&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;R&lt;/i&gt;&lt;sub&gt;max&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;span&gt;&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;and&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;R&lt;/i&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;i&gt;2%&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;span&gt;) and its components, infragravity- and sea-swell band&amp;nbsp;swash&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;(&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;S&lt;/i&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;i&gt;IG&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;span&gt;&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;and&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;S&lt;/i&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;i&gt;SS&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;span&gt;) and&lt;span&gt; shoreline&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;setup (&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&amp;lt;η&amp;gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span&gt;), were compared to observations. XB-NH more accurately simulated wave transformation but under-predicted shoreline setup due to its exclusion of parameterized wave-roller dynamics. XB-SB under-predicted sea-swell band swash but overestimated shoreline setup due to an over-prediction of&amp;nbsp;wave heights on the reef flat. Run-up (swash) spectra were dominated by infragravity motions, allowing the short-wave (but not wave group) averaged model (XB-SB) to perform comparably well to its more complete, short-wave resolving (XB-NH) counterpart. Despite their respective limitations, both modes were able to accurately predict&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;R&lt;/i&gt;&lt;sub&gt;max&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;span&gt;&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;and&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;R&lt;/i&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;i&gt;2%&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;span&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</dc:description>
  <dc:format>application/pdf</dc:format>
  <dc:identifier>10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.03.007</dc:identifier>
  <dc:language>en</dc:language>
  <dc:publisher>Elsevier</dc:publisher>
  <dc:title>Nonhydrostatic and surfbeat model predictions of extreme wave run-up in fringing reef environments</dc:title>
  <dc:type>article</dc:type>
</oai_dc:dc>