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<oai_dc:dc xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:oai_dc="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc/ http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/oai_dc.xsd">
  <dc:contributor>Chris Blenkinsop</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Gerd Masselink</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Ian L. Turner</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Kévin Martin</dc:contributor>
  <dc:contributor>Curt D. Storlazzi</dc:contributor>
  <dc:creator>Sam Rose</dc:creator>
  <dc:date>2026</dc:date>
  <dc:description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;Coral atoll islands are highly susceptible to flooding and overwash due to their low-lying nature and the impacts of climate change. This study presents the first long-term, high-resolution field dataset of wave runup on a coral atoll island, collected over 6&amp;nbsp;weeks using a shore-mounted LiDAR scanner. The LiDAR data captured swash dynamics on a steep coral rubble beach fronted by a conglomerate platform. Results demonstrate the limitations of depth-based swash extraction methods, particularly for thin swash events, where depth thresholds lead to significant underprediction. Further analyses show that low-frequency oscillations (infragravity and very-low-frequency bands) and high-frequency components (transitional bores) dominate the spectra on the reef platform and are reflected in the swash signal. The displayed swash spectra highlight the critical role of low-frequency oscillations in extreme runup events, emphasizing their contribution to island flooding and overwash.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</dc:description>
  <dc:format>application/pdf</dc:format>
  <dc:language>en</dc:language>
  <dc:publisher>Springer</dc:publisher>
  <dc:title>Measurements of wave runup on an atoll island using LiDAR</dc:title>
  <dc:type>text</dc:type>
</oai_dc:dc>