Small-scale morphology across the surf zone
Marine Geology
By: E.B. Thornton, J.L. Swayne, and J.R. Dingler
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Abstract
Small-scale (< 5 m horizontal length) nearshore morphologic height variations were measured by combining CRAB surveys with bed elevations acquired with a 1 MHz sonic altimeter mounted on the CRAB during the October Phase of the DUCK94 experiment. Bedform plan views were recorded simultaneously using a 500 kHz side-scan sonar mounted on the CRAB. Waves and currents were measured at the same time. Significant temporal and spatial variations in the small-scale morphology were measured in response to changing waves and currents during the 2 weeks examined. Three cases are examined in detail: (1) mild waves and weak longshore currents resulting in wave ripples throughout the study area; (2) storm waves with strong longshore currents resulting in lunate and straight-crested mega-ripples in the trough of the barred beach; and (3) narrow-band, normally incident waves with a strong rip current resulting in a planar bed except in the throat of the rip where mega-ripples were measured. Wavenumber spectra of the bed were generally broad, indicating newly formed ripples coexisted with residual ripples from the past to form complex, multi-scaled ripple patterns.
| Publication type | Article |
|---|---|
| Publication Subtype | Journal Article |
| Title | Small-scale morphology across the surf zone |
| Series title | Marine Geology |
| DOI | 10.1016/S0025-3227(97)00114-X |
| Volume | 145 |
| Issue | 3-4 |
| Year Published | 1998 |
| Language | English |
| Larger Work Type | Article |
| Larger Work Subtype | Journal Article |
| Larger Work Title | Marine Geology |
| First page | 173 |
| Last page | 196 |