Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach
Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans
By: P. Ruggiero, R.A. Holman, and R.A. Beach
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Abstract
Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation varied by a factor of 2 along the 1.6 km study site, ranging from 26 to 61% of the offshore significant wave height, and was found to be linearly dependent on the local foreshore beach slope that varied by a factor of 5. Run-up motions on this high-energy dissipative beach were dominated by infragravity (low frequency) energy with peak periods of approximately 230 s. Incident band energy levels were 2.5 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the low-frequency spectral peaks and typically 96% of the run-up variance was in the infragravity band. A broad region of the run-up spectra exhibited an f-4 roll off, typical of saturation, extending to frequencies lower than observed in previous studies. The run-up spectra were dependent on beach slope with spectra for steeper foreshore slopes shifted toward higher frequencies than spectra for shallower foreshore slopes. At infragravity frequencies, run-up motions were coherent over alongshore length scales in excess of 1 km, significantly greater than decorrelation length scales on moderate to reflective beaches. Copyright 2004 by the American Geophysical Union.
Suggested Citation
Ruggiero, P., Holman, R., Beach, R., 2004, Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach: Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans, v. 109, no. 6, https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160.
| Publication type | Article |
|---|---|
| Publication Subtype | Journal Article |
| Title | Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach |
| Series title | Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans |
| DOI | 10.1029/2003JC002160 |
| Volume | 109 |
| Issue | 6 |
| Publication Date | June 24, 2004 |
| Year Published | 2004 |
| Language | English |
| Larger Work Type | Article |
| Larger Work Subtype | Journal Article |
| Larger Work Title | Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans |