Nearshore bathymetric evolution on a high-energy beach during the 2009-10 El Niño winter
Links
- More information: Publisher Index Page (via DOI)
- Download citation as: RIS | Dublin Core
Abstract
The nearshore bathymetric evolution of a high-energy beach at the mouth of San Francisco Bay, California (USA), was tracked before, during, and after the powerful El Niño winter of 2009-10 to quantify alongshore bar formation and migration as well as the magnitude and alongshore variability of cross-shore transport. The observed deep-water winter wave energy was among the highest ever recorded in Northern California, peaking during a 7 day period in the middle of January 2010 with a mean deep-water significant wave height (Hs) of 5.5 m, and a maximum Hs= 9 m. The extreme forcing during the study period resulted in local bed level changes that approached 5 m, cross-shore bar migration of > 250 m, ~3 m alongshore trough deepening, and a net gain of ~1.6 million m3 of sediment to the nearshore profile over the 7 km alongshore extent of the survey area, leaving beach sand levels severely depleted. The morphological evolution observed during this El Niño winter may serve as a proxy for future coastal response to climate change if current trends of increased storminess continue for the U.S. West Coast.
Suggested Citation
Barnard, P., Hoover, D.J., Hansen, J., 2011, Nearshore bathymetric evolution on a high-energy beach during the 2009-10 El Nino winter, in The proceedings of the coastal sediments 2011, p. 1390-1403, https://doi.org/10.1142/9789814355537_0105.
Study Area
| Publication type | Conference Paper |
|---|---|
| Publication Subtype | Conference Paper |
| Title | Nearshore bathymetric evolution on a high-energy beach during the 2009-10 El Nino winter |
| DOI | 10.1142/9789814355537_0105 |
| Publication Date | June 07, 2012 |
| Year Published | 2011 |
| Language | English |
| Publisher | World Scientific |
| Contributing office(s) | Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center |
| Description | 14 p. |
| Larger Work Type | Book |
| Larger Work Subtype | Conference publication |
| Larger Work Title | The proceedings of the coastal sediments 2011 |
| First page | 1390 |
| Last page | 1403 |
| Country | United States |
| State | California |
| Other Geospatial | Ocean Beach |