Nearshore bathymetric evolution on a high-energy beach during the 2009-10 El Niño winter

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The nearshore bathymetric evolution of a high-energy beach at the mouth of San Francisco Bay, California (USA), was tracked before, during, and after the powerful El Niño winter of 2009-10 to quantify alongshore bar formation and migration as well as the magnitude and alongshore variability of cross-shore transport. The observed deep-water winter wave energy was among the highest ever recorded in Northern California, peaking during a 7 day period in the middle of January 2010 with a mean deep-water significant wave height (Hs) of 5.5 m, and a maximum Hs= 9 m. The extreme forcing during the study period resulted in local bed level changes that approached 5 m, cross-shore bar migration of > 250 m, ~3 m alongshore trough deepening, and a net gain of ~1.6 million m3 of sediment to the nearshore profile over the 7 km alongshore extent of the survey area, leaving beach sand levels severely depleted. The morphological evolution observed during this El Niño winter may serve as a proxy for future coastal response to climate change if current trends of increased storminess continue for the U.S. West Coast.

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Publication type Conference Paper
Publication Subtype Conference Paper
Title Nearshore bathymetric evolution on a high-energy beach during the 2009-10 El Nino winter
DOI 10.1142/9789814355537_0105
Year Published 2011
Language English
Publisher World Scientific
Contributing office(s) Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Description 14 p.
Larger Work Type Book
Larger Work Subtype Conference publication
Larger Work Title The proceedings of the coastal sediments 2011
First page 1390
Last page 1403
Country United States
State California
Other Geospatial Ocean Beach
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