Field observations of alongshore runup variability under dissipative conditions in presence of a shoreline sandwave
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Abstract
Video measurements of runup were collected at low tide along several profiles covering an alongshore distance of 500 m. The morphology displayed a complex shape with a shoreline sandwave in the lower beach face of about 250 m long mirrored in the inner sandbar. Wave conditions were stationary and moderate (offshore height of 2 m and peak period of nearly 13 s) but yet dissipative. Runup energy was dominated by infragravity frequencies. Alongshore variations in runup (by a factor up to 3) observed both in the incident and infragravity bands were much higher than reported previously (e.g., Guedes et al., 2012, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2012.08.022; Ruggiero et al., 2004, https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160) while the alongshore variations in other environmental parameters (e.g., foreshore beach slope) appear to be much lower. Our data suggest that the beach morphology in the inner surf zone plays a crucial role by inducing rapid and significant modification in the incident wave pattern and the alongshore coherence length scales were consistent with the typical alongshore length scale of the morphology.
| Publication type | Article |
|---|---|
| Publication Subtype | Journal Article |
| Title | Field observations of alongshore runup variability under dissipative conditions in presence of a shoreline sandwave |
| Series title | Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans |
| DOI | 10.1029/2018JC014109 |
| Volume | 123 |
| Issue | 9 |
| Publication Date | September 22, 2018 |
| Year Published | 2018 |
| Language | English |
| Publisher | AGU |
| Contributing office(s) | St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center |
| Description | 18 p. |
| First page | 6800 |
| Last page | 6817 |