Wave-scale observations of sediment resuspension and subsequent transport across a fringing reef flat
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Abstract
During a 3-month deployment on a broad, fringing reef flat in Moloka’i, Hawai’i, we observed over 28,000 wave-driven resuspension (WDR) events of coarse-grained sediment in order to identify major factors. These events were short-lived (2-11 s) and distinct from the longer-duration patterns of water-column backscatter. The wave-driven transport of WDR events was onshore, but the net cross-shore transport was ultimately controlled by water levels. Higher water levels produced larger reef-flat waves, which were requisite for these events to occur. But rising water levels also drove stronger offshore flows. Consequently, onshore net transport of WDR events only occurred within a narrow water-level range, when waves were sufficiently large, but the offshore flow was still weak. Our observations demonstrate how cross-shore transport of coarse-grained material over reef flats is sensitive to changing water levels. Rising sea levels will likely alter transport patterns, which will in turn affect cross-shore delivery of carbonate sand to adjacent shorelines.
Study Area
| Publication type | Conference Paper |
|---|---|
| Publication Subtype | Conference Paper |
| Title | Wave-scale observations of sediment resuspension and subsequent transport across a fringing reef flat |
| DOI | 10.1142/9789811275135_0149 |
| Year Published | 2023 |
| Language | English |
| Publisher | World Scientific |
| Contributing office(s) | Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center |
| Description | 14 p. |
| Larger Work Type | Book |
| Larger Work Subtype | Conference publication |
| Larger Work Title | The proceedings of the coastal sediments 2023 |
| First page | 1607 |
| Last page | 1620 |
| Conference Title | Coastal Sediments 2023 |
| Conference Location | New Orleans, LA |
| Conference Date | April 11-15, 2023 |
| Country | United States |
| State | Hawaii |
| Other Geospatial | Moloka’i |
| Google Analytic Metrics | Metrics page |