Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets

Coastal Engineering
By: , and 

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Abstract

Coastal jetties are commonly used throughout the world to stabilize channels and improve navigation through inlets. These engineered structures form artificial boundaries to littoral cells by reducing wave-driven longshore sediment transport across inlet entrances. Consequently, beaches adjacent to engineered inlets are subject to large gradients in longshore transport rates and are highly sensitive to changes in wave climate. Here, we quantify annual beach and nearshore sediment volume changes over a 9-yr time period along 80 km of wave-dominated coastlines in the U.S. Pacific Northwest. Beach and nearshore monitoring during the study period (2014-2023) reveal spatially coherent, multi-annual patterns of erosion and deposition on opposing sides of two engineered inlets, indicating a regional reversal of longshore-transport direction. A numerical wave model coupled with a longshore transport predictor was calibrated and validated to explore the causes for the observed spatial and temporal patterns of erosion and deposition adjacent to the inlets. The model results indicate that subtle but important changes in wave direction on seasonal to multi-annual time scales were responsible for the reversal in the net longshore sediment transport direction and opposing patterns of morphology change. Changes in longshore transport direction coincided with a reversal in the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) climate index, suggesting large-scale, multi-decadal climate variability may influence patterns of waves and sediment dynamics at other sites throughout the Pacific basin.

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Publication type Article
Publication Subtype Journal Article
Title Climate controls on longshore sediment transport and coastal morphology adjacent to engineered inlets
Series title Coastal Engineering
DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104617
Volume 194
Year Published 2024
Language English
Publisher Elsevier
Contributing office(s) Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Description 104617, 15 p.
Country United States
State Oregon, Washington
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