Unravelling equilibrium shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise: Numerical modelling of laboratory experiments

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Abstract

Knowledge gaps in the physics of shoreline response to the combined action of waves and sea-level rise (SLR) make long-term shoreline projections uncertain. The lack of sufficiently long-term shoreline data partly hinders a better understanding of shoreline change driven by SLR. Thereby, existing formulations related to the equilibrium approach, which states that a beach profile shape equilibrates with its local wave and sea-level conditions, have serious limitations. Recent physical modelling studies provided data of beach profile evolution under changing sea levels in controlled laboratory settings. Here, we bring together and analyze laboratory data from three different physical modelling studies to better understand and predict shoreline response to SLR in the context of equilibrium concept. The data indicate a clear relationship among the analyzed variables, highlighting the importance of accounting for interactions between SLR and incident wave power. To further understand these interactions, and given the limited range of conditions tested in the laboratory, we implement a quasi-2D shoreline change model to generate additional synthetic data. We first calibrate and validate the model to emulate the existing laboratory experiments. The model reproduces multiple laboratory experiments that cover a range of settings, providing confidence in its accuracy. Further work will include the generation of synthetic data obtained by forcing the model with new combinations of SLR and wave conditions to better capture the dependency of shoreline recession on SLR and wave conditions.

Suggested Citation

D’Anna, M., Ribas, F., Falques, A., Calvete, D., Coco, G., Vitousek, S., and Yates, M., 2025, Unravelling equilibrium shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise: Numerical modelling of laboratory experiments, Coastal Dynamics 2025, v. 2, Aveiro, Portugal, April 7-11, 2025, p. 673-678, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-032-15477-4_101.

Publication type Conference Paper
Publication Subtype Conference Paper
Title Unravelling equilibrium shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise: Numerical modelling of laboratory experiments
DOI 10.1007/978-3-032-15477-4_101
Volume 2
Publication Date March 17, 2026
Year Published 2025
Language English
Publisher Springer
Contributing office(s) Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Description 6 p.
First page 673
Last page 678
Conference Title Coastal Dynamics 2025
Conference Location Aveiro, Portugal
Conference Date April 7-11, 2025
Additional publication details