Measurements of wave runup on an atoll island using LiDAR
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Abstract
Coral atoll islands are highly susceptible to flooding and overwash due to their low-lying nature and the impacts of climate change. This study presents the first long-term, high-resolution field dataset of wave runup on a coral atoll island, collected over 6 weeks using a shore-mounted LiDAR scanner. The LiDAR data captured swash dynamics on a steep coral rubble beach fronted by a conglomerate platform. Results demonstrate the limitations of depth-based swash extraction methods, particularly for thin swash events, where depth thresholds lead to significant underprediction. Further analyses show that low-frequency oscillations (infragravity and very-low-frequency bands) and high-frequency components (transitional bores) dominate the spectra on the reef platform and are reflected in the swash signal. The displayed swash spectra highlight the critical role of low-frequency oscillations in extreme runup events, emphasizing their contribution to island flooding and overwash.
Suggested Citation
Rose, S., Blenkinsop, C., Masselink, G., Turner, I.L., Martin, K., and Storlazzi, C.D., 2026, Measurements of wave runup on an atoll island using LiDAR, Coastal Dynamics 2025, Aveiro, Portugal, April 7-11, 2025, p. 622-628.
| Publication type | Conference Paper |
|---|---|
| Publication Subtype | Conference Paper |
| Title | Measurements of wave runup on an atoll island using LiDAR |
| Publication Date | March 05, 2026 |
| Year Published | 2026 |
| Language | English |
| Publisher | Springer |
| Contributing office(s) | Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center |
| Description | 7 p. |
| First page | 622 |
| Last page | 628 |
| Conference Title | Coastal Dynamics 2025 |
| Conference Location | Aveiro, Portugal |
| Conference Date | April 7-11, 2025 |